Perfect Editing for Super 8???

[noahstout]

Ok- well I doubt it possible. I've fussed with the problem of editing on super 8 for years, trying different splicers (cement and tape) etc. I'm not completely happy with anything I've done so far. My problem is that I always see the cuts. My cement splicer makes a line in the middle of the frame- where the two pieces of film overlap. And you can see the tape go by when using a tape splicer. Its important for me to have a final product where you see no bump/line or anything in the edit. Is the only way to do this to move to 16mm?
Is there some service where I can get a print made from an original positive (reversal film)? Or a service to get the super 8 blown up to 16? This would make the film pass through the projector more smoothly, as there would be no physical splices? Would the splices still show in the projection? [img]graemlins/cry_smile.gif[/img]

[oldasdirt]

Interesting since film editing by cutting the original is something rapidly going the way of the buffalo.Even if you move to 16mm, if you edit the original,your splices will still be visible going through the projector.An old projectionist trick would be to use black ink on the weld line(some even suggest blacking out the entire frame,saying it will be hidden in projection)on cement splices.I don't fancy using anything indelible on my original film.
The only way to hide splices is to make an edgenumbered workprint,edit that and then conform your original to match your workprint into A and B rolls.Then your print is made from the conformed original rolls.This is something that takes experience and is not done much anymore with the advent of telecine technology and computer based editing.
Marty

[noahstout]

thanks for the reply! so is it at all posible to A/B roll super 8? Is it just not worth the cost (figuring most use s8 for economic reasons anyway)?
So whats the best method? Just find the best splicer you can find and live with it? Or move to 16mm and start telecining?
ns

[rollemfilm]

Editing A&B is not worth the trouble in super 8. First, how would you print it? If you want to edit with film, switch to 16mm. Otherwise you would be better off getting a NLE system and like you said, start getting your films in the digital world. It is the perfect system for super 8.

I shot my first documentary with super 8 and edited with an Avid. I ended up getting more for my money because I was able to make a broadcast master and many dubs for less that what a single film print would have cost. Way less. And since I shot on real film it has a quality that is far beyond what any affordable video format.

[oldasdirt]

I haven't heard of anyone attempting A and B roll editing in super 8 since the late 70's.In fact, you don't hear about much of that in 16mm or 35mm that much anymore since the advent of NLE systems.
It still can be done,though,just like you say,not worth the time and money.There is a lab in Germany that still makes s-8 prints from s-8 originals.Still,I'm not sure if they can print from A and B rolls or not.Then again,too,you would need to find someone to do inked on edgenumbers,which here again,I haven't seen done since about 1980.
Marty

[noahstout]

thanks guys,
I have FCP3 on my Mac for my video work. I've pretty much kept the mediums seperate. The only thing I've done is use one of those cheeaaaaaap transfer box things and shoot my film with my Sony VX2000 and edit it on FCP. Obviously, the quality wasn't high and I just used the non-linear style to do my work and then replicated the cuts by splicing.
I know I want to be able to edit my s8 work, and hate the way splices look, so i'm going to try and edit some digitally.
Whats a good way (service?) of getting my s8 films onto my computer for editing, which would maintain a higher-quality look of film?

[rollemfilm]

Well, if your Sony camera is your main source to input video to your computer, have the super 8 footage transferred to DV (your Sony is DV?)and then use the camera to input the footage like you normally do. Here is where I get my transfers:

www.posthouse.com